PVD, Gold Plating & Stainless Steel: What Every Jewellery Retailer Should Know

Customers are more informed than ever about the jewellery they buy, and they are asking better questions.

What is 316L stainless steel?

Is PVD real gold?

What is the difference between gold plated and PVD?

Can I shower in it?

Why has my gold finish changed?

As a retailer, being able to answer these questions clearly helps your customers understand exactly what they are buying and, just as importantly, helps set realistic expectations about how jewellery should be worn and cared for.

So here is the straightforward version.

Stainless Steel: 304 vs 316L

Stainless steel is a popular jewellery material because it is strong, durable and resistant to corrosion.

You will commonly see 304 and 316L stainless steel used in jewellery.

304 Stainless Steel

304 is a durable and widely used stainless steel grade with good corrosion resistance.

It is used in jewellery as well as countless everyday products and applications.

316L Stainless Steel

316L is another stainless steel grade commonly used in jewellery.

Its key difference is that it contains molybdenum, which gives it increased resistance to corrosion, particularly in environments containing chlorides such as salt water.

This is one reason 316L is commonly selected for jewellery.

So which should you tell your customer is better?

316L generally offers greater corrosion resistance than 304, but both are established stainless steel grades suitable for jewellery.

Neither should be described as completely waterproof or indestructible.

The important message for customers is simple:

Stainless steel is durable, but it still benefits from sensible care.

What Is PVD?

PVD stands for Physical Vapour Deposition.

It is a coating process carried out in a vacuum, where material is deposited onto the surface of the jewellery to create a very thin, dense coating.

PVD is commonly used to create coloured or gold finishes on stainless steel jewellery.

One of the reasons PVD is popular is its ability to produce a hard, durable surface coating when properly applied.

But here is an important point:

PVD is a coating, not solid gold.

If a piece is described as having an 18K PVD gold finish, this does not mean the jewellery is made entirely from 18K gold.

The underlying jewellery remains the base material, for example stainless steel, with the PVD coating applied to its surface.

Just How Thin Is PVD?

PVD coatings are measured in microns.

One micron is just 0.001 millimetres.

To put that into perspective, a human hair is roughly 70 microns in diameter.

That means a PVD coating can be only a tiny fraction of the width of a human hair.

Sounds extremely thin, right?

It is.

But coating performance is not simply about making the coating as thick as possible. The characteristics of the coating, its hardness, adhesion, the underlying material and the PVD process all contribute to how it performs.

So a very thin coating can still provide a durable finish.

Thin does not mean poor quality.

But it also does not mean indestructible.

No surface coating is immune to friction, chemicals and wear forever.

PVD Gold Is Not Solid Gold

This is worth making very clear to customers.

If jewellery has an 18K PVD gold finish, the 18K refers to the gold containing coating or finish, not to the entire jewellery item being made from solid 18K gold.

Think of it this way:

Solid gold: gold throughout the material.

Gold plated: a layer of gold applied over another material.

Gold PVD: a thin gold containing PVD coating applied over another material.

They are different products, with very different material costs.

This is why PVD and gold plated jewellery can offer the appearance of gold at a much more accessible price than solid gold.

Gold Plating: What Happens to the Finish?

Gold plated jewellery has a layer of gold applied to the surface of another material.

The gold layer is a finish.

And like any surface finish, it can wear.

How quickly that happens depends on factors including the thickness and quality of the plating, how frequently the piece is worn, friction against skin and clothing, sweat, perfume, cosmetics, water, chlorine, salt water, cleaning products, individual skin chemistry and how the jewellery is stored.

A necklace worn occasionally and kept away from chemicals may retain its finish considerably longer than a bracelet worn every day in the shower, swimming pool and gym.

There is not one guaranteed lifespan that applies to every person or every piece.

Wear is affected by how the jewellery is worn.

Is Water Resistant Jewellery Waterproof?

No.

This is probably one of the most important distinctions for retailers to explain.

If a product is described as water resistant, it means the product has a degree of resistance to water exposure.

It does not mean it is completely waterproof or immune to prolonged exposure.

For example, occasional contact with water is very different from deliberately wearing jewellery in a swimming pool every week.

Water resistance also does not automatically mean that every component of a piece has the same resistance.

A jewellery item may contain stainless steel, PVD or gold plating, gemstones, crystals, settings, decorative components and adhesives.

These components can behave differently when exposed to water, chemicals, heat and friction.

What About Perfume?

This is an easy one for customers to remember:

PERFUME FIRST. JEWELLERY LAST.

Perfume, body sprays, creams, lotions, oils, hairspray and tanning products can contain ingredients that may affect jewellery finishes over time.

This does not mean one accidental spray will instantly ruin a piece.

The issue is repeated exposure.

If a customer wants to maximise the lifespan of their jewellery, recommend applying perfume and skincare first, allowing it to dry, and then putting their jewellery on.

Avoid spraying perfume directly onto the jewellery.

What About Swimming?

We recommend removing jewellery before swimming, particularly in chlorinated pools, hot tubs and salt water.

Chlorine and salt or chloride exposure can be more demanding on metals and finishes than normal everyday moisture.

This is particularly worth remembering with gold plated pieces.

A customer saying, "But you said it was water resistant" does not change what the term means.

Water resistant means resistant to water, not immune to every environment involving water.

Gemstones & Settings Need Their Own Consideration

A common mistake is assuming that if the metal is water resistant, the entire piece is automatically waterproof.

That is not necessarily the case.

Gemstones vary in their physical properties, including hardness and resistance to chemicals or heat.

Settings can experience wear, and some jewellery construction methods may use adhesives or other components that can be affected by prolonged exposure to moisture, chemicals or heat.

For jewellery containing stones, crystals or decorative elements, sensible care is recommended even when the metal itself is highly resistant to corrosion.

Water resistant metal does not make every component of a jewellery piece waterproof.

The Simple Care Advice Retailers Can Give Customers

You do not need to give customers a chemistry lesson every time they buy a necklace.

The basic advice is:

DO

• Put jewellery on after perfume and skincare.

• Wipe jewellery with a soft, dry cloth after wearing.

• Store jewellery somewhere dry.

• Keep pieces separated where possible.

• Remove jewellery before swimming or using a hot tub.

• Take extra care with plated and gemstone pieces.

DON'T

• Spray perfume directly onto jewellery.

• Deliberately soak jewellery for prolonged periods.

• Wear jewellery in chlorinated pools or hot tubs.

• Leave jewellery wet for long periods.

• Expose jewellery unnecessarily to harsh chemicals.

• Use abrasive cleaners on plated finishes.

• Assume water resistant means waterproof.

The Most Important Thing to Tell Your Customer

Jewellery has a lifespan.

That does not mean a piece is poor quality.

It means materials and finishes naturally experience wear.

Stainless steel is durable.

316L offers enhanced corrosion resistance compared with 304.

PVD creates a highly controlled surface coating.

Gold plating creates a gold finish over another material.

Water resistant jewellery can tolerate a degree of water exposure.

But none of these things make jewellery completely immune to friction, chemicals, water, chlorine, salt, perfume or everyday wear.

The same piece can last very differently for two different customers because their wearing habits are different.

A customer who wears a gold plated bracelet occasionally and removes it before swimming may get very different results from someone who wears it 24/7, showers in it, applies perfume directly onto it and swims in chlorine several times a week.

That is normal.

The Retailer Takeaway

The best thing you can do is be clear about the material and honest about what it means.

Do not tell customers:

"It is waterproof."

when the product is actually water resistant.

Do not tell them:

"It is 18K gold."

when the product is 18K PVD or gold plated.

Instead, explain what the jewellery actually is and give the customer the correct care advice.

That way, the customer knows what they are buying, knows what to expect and has the information needed to keep their jewellery looking its best.

In short:

Stainless steel = durable.

316L = enhanced corrosion resistance compared with 304.

PVD = a thin, durable surface coating process.

Gold plated = a layer of gold over another material.

Water resistant = resistant to water, not waterproof.

And all jewellery needs appropriate care.

Good jewellery does not need to be treated like it is made of glass.

But it also does not need to be put through the washing machine and expected to come out looking brand new.

Know the material. Know the finish. Know the limitations. And tell your customers the same.